^^r 




5 



Ll 



L.^/ 






5 



u 



&s/ 



/i 



i 

if 

If 

I 

m 

ll 

m 

I 
I 

m 



^^^TlJ tH^TTTJ .qrU L^P 



P^^gagTrr^CtT^gTPJ-^TM^T Mgirgiig 



1 aw&N^iS) mmf 



pi 

ill 

ft 

i 
i 
i 



m 

I 





-^ 



^- 






Bj^UO-I-IlVEyVISr'B 




ON 



@)iist timmia^mv 



-^ 




i 

il 
i! 
I 

-a 

I 

-a 

I 

m 

M 
1 

I 



liifiMSBM^SMMPSiPP^^^^^ 




^ 



i 






B^^LJO-t^lVE^^JM'S 



ADVANCED HIMITS 



'Ka-sJS;' "Si< «»« "OSBI. ■'^liSV '■ ■■■ V 



^. Vfm tl S ^ 



n ON o 



DRESS CUTTING. 



K\^ » - / 



Mr. & Mrs. J. S 

BURLINGTON. IOWA 



BAUGHMAN, 



ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. 






r.iiui.iNcriiN. KHV \ : 

CllMMIIU IM I'UINIINI. lOMI'WN. 
i Si) 2. 



? • I 



1< 




^<^-md- 



'4' (^i-l/^^; 



'd. / 



id: ^^. ^. (^ffauaZ/man, 



^O^^i^f'^'i>'f^(^^i^, ^'^i^i'/'r/. 



eAlO'3^oz llur^'J 



BAUGHMAN'S ADVANCED HINTS ON DliUSS CUTTING. 



:t 



-IlvrTPtODXJOTOFt^S^. 



ID 



u^ 



RESS CUTTING is an art, and requires 

TASTE and CAREFUL STUDY. It IS A SCIENCE 

and requires precision on the part of the 

person who takes the measure and drafts 

and cuts the garment. 

T Putting the lining upon the goods and 

BASTING the single parts of the garment together 

PROPERLY, is also ail important feature. 

A garment may be cut artistically and cor- 
rectly, and then spoiled in basting and finishing. 
It may be cut correctly, basted nicely and fit 
smoothly ; yet lack the artistic effect which 
characterizes a first class garment, simply be- 
cause the shape and curvature of the seams and 



the draprry are not in harmony with the form. 
This entire book, therefore, has been written 
and illustrated to make self-instruction not only 
possilile but easy. To teach you how to copy from 
any fashion journals, and to design your own pat- 
terns as fashion may dictate. 

In studying this book, read carefully each 
sentence, and perform that part of the work, then 
another sentence, and do that, and so continue 
with each piece until the garment is drafted. If 
you do this, and make frequent reference to the 
illnstrationv, you will have no trouble in under- 
standing all designs herein illustrated. 



3-^^^ 



1 







TO OUR CUSTOMERS. 



Tliiis Bools. is designed to t>e lased either witii tlie 
Glove-Fitting Garment Cutter, Improved No. I, 



Adjustable Tailor System. 



-^READ OAREFULLY.^r 



Those using the Improved No. 1, Glove-Fitting Garment Clutter can understand the illustrations 
in this book by cutting a paper pattern, (according to meas\ire, ) on traced linen, allowing tio seams. 
Use this pattern according to directions for the Adjustable Tailor System, and substitute the word 
pattern wherever the word machine or sjjstem. occurs. And where curve of xqtiare is used, substitute 
cttmie of ^de- form. 



i:n (JiiJ/Ays AitvASi i:j> hims os ih:i:ss < i iiisa. 




THE DOUBLE FRENCH DART. 
s]:k iKaiii', I. 

Tile object of this 
cutting ii^ to give a per- 
fect tit to the garment 
at arms-eye ; also in 
front at fiiUest part of 
bust, where;SO many 
have to take up rtarts. 
To cut this with the 
machine, first make a 
common draft in full. 
Then hold your finger 
on system as at point 
L. (as shown in Fig. 1,) 
about one inch in front 
of front dart; move 
system forward at 
waist line, about one 
inch, and trace front 
edge of front dart B. 
also from point of bust down front of system, as 
l)er line A. 

Replace system to original i)osition. and hold 
your finger above, and back of back dart, as at point 
K. Move system back about H inches at waist line. 
Now trace back edge of back dart C, also the under- 
arm seam 1). from arms-eye of system down to bot- 
tom of basque. If properly moved, the machine 
will be about f of an inch higher at arms-eye than 
the draft, and should be so cut. The lines A, B. 
(', D, represents the change made in this style. 

Those using ihe No. 1. can cut a paper pattern on triunl liiirs. in- 
rliidiii'j the fiarts. then move pattern as seen in-Fi{; 1 

THE SINGLE DART. 

SI' !■■ t icrkio I \ 

In cutting the Single 
Dart, trace aroun<l out- 
side of system. Then 
move system back | of an 
inch and trace front edge 
of f r o n t dart. M a r k 
through the l>ack slot, 
between the darts at 
w a ist of system as at 
Itoint J : also mark be- 
tween dart pieces as at I. 
Then use l)ack e<lge of 
front dart to trace to 
these points marked. 

Also take off J on an 
inch at under-arm seam 
as af point K. 

In using tiie No. i to cut tliis sl\lf, simply mariv points 
III lialf fitting dart, (found on tlinrt, i ami take off two sizes 
ai waist oi underarm seam. 





TO NARRJW SPACE BETWEEN DARTS. 

- 1 L I uaki: I K. 

First trace around out- 
[side of system, then trace 

front rl a r t. No w m a r k 
[through back slot at waist 
lline between the darts at 

point T. Hold finger at 
I top of back dart. Then 

move system forward so 

front edge of back dart 
I touches this point, and 

trace the back dart as per 
IdotttMl lines. 

DARTLESS BASQUE. 

SI'I, lli.CRK 2.. 

To vwX this style of basque 
,nark around on outside of 
system, and draw waist 
line. Now measure in 1^ 
inches at waist line, from the under-arm seam; 
also i' of an incli at bottom of skirt, then draw a 
straight line from arms-eye. down to waistline, 
and resliajit' willi cnr\e of s([uare as seen in Fig. '1 

])y the heavy curved lines. 
Measure down on this 
straight line the length of 
ycnir under-arm measure, 
and mark waist line as in- 
dicated or seam will be too 
long. Then sha[)e tln^ hip 
seam of skirt from this 
point. Now measure in 1^^ 
inches at waist line in 
front, and I of an inch at 
Itottoin of bastiue, and 
shape with curve of the 
square, as per line K. 
Then shape bottom of 
bas(|uc. 

To throw a fullness into 
the bust, add 1 inch out 
from point of shoulder 
; ;'am. as jrei' d(^1te(l line and shape arms-eye with 
.-ysteni; then take up 1 inch in center of shoulder. 
This is only done in cutting the lining. Then in 
basting on the goods, hold the lining full at waist 
line. 

DAK-TLESS BASQUE. 

CPF.N I.N THE n.^CK, OR UNDER-ARM SEAM. 

si:!', i'i(;i:Kr 3. 

To (lit this style. [)lace system with fronton 
fold of goods, and trace neck, shouhler, arms-eye 
and under-arm strain to bottom of l)asque. Mark 
waist line. Now mark off the width of both darts 

(;') in.> at waist line from nndcr-ann seam K to L; 




liAi mi MAS's Mn.is(i:h iiisrs o.v inti.ss < i ri/.\(;. 




also H inches at hottou of 
skirt of l)asque. Draw a 
straight line from arms- 
eye to point at waist line 
L. then sliape and eurve 
the uiider-arni seam as in- 
dicated, witli the curve of 
the square. Measure down 
to j?et the exact waist line, 
then shape the hip seam. 
If this line is not curved 
the dress will be too tiRlit 
aci'oss the l)ust. 

The f II 1 1 n e s s can be 
thrown into the front, the 
same as in No. 2; as indi- 
cated ))y dotted lines K 
and I. (Fi^. -5). 
Tile line A indicates another style where the 
front is slashed from A to O on fold. Tiien the 
goods is drawn liack to the shoulder, and a fancy 
vest inserted. These bascjues are slashed in front 
from bottom of basque to waist line. 

LADIES' COAT BASQUE, 

WITH REVERE AND COLLAR COMBINED. 

SKK l-KM-RK 4. 

To cut this gai m mi 
first make a conuuou 
draft in full : then 
draw a straight line 
K, from neck at 
shoulder seam, down 
to waist line. Now 
measure from this line 
towards the arms-eye- 
as far as you wish the 
revere to lap on the 
front, as point ('. 
Til en measure fi-om 
line K. out. and mfirk 
point A the same dis- 
tance. Then use the 
curved edge <>f t In- 
square to shape tlu^ 
front inward to point 
A. then outward to ba<^k of collar. 

The collar should l)e about ;^ inches high, and 
cut long so as to liave room to fit it to the form at 
tlie l)ack. 

This garment is very desiral)le for vest fronts 
or shirt waists. Tlie back can be cut as any ordi- 
nary basque or with the French Back. (See fig. 7. t 




LADIES COAT, 

WITH REVERE AND COLLAR COMBINED 

s I-; |- I' I < ; r k i-, 4 \ . 

In cutting a 
ladies' coat or 
a n y o\i t side 
garment, it is 
necessary to 
add one size to 
the b u st, the 
waist, the neck 
and arms-eye. 
Also to the el- 
bow, wrist and 
a r 111 s-e y e o f 
s!ee\e. 

Add out as 
indicated from 
neck of system 
at I. toward 
poi n t L. the 
distan ce y o u 
wish the revere 
1 turn back 
towards arms- 
eye; then curve 
in towards the 
waist line with 
curve of square 
Should you wish the coal to lap from top to 

bottom, add tiie distance from hem at waist line. 

to the line of the liuttons, as per dotted line F. 
To cut the dart as indicated, simply place the 

under-arm form straight with the under-arm seam 

of front; then trace around the outside of both. 

and throw off the dart from the front. A two in( h 

dart will leave the coat 1 inch loose. 

In cutting the collar it is best to <Mit it onto 

the revere, without velvet or other goods is used. 

In that case, cut the collar sejiarate as indicated. 

aii<l sew on. 

SEAMLESS WAIST OR BASQUE. 

>l.l I li.lKI. 3. !• \(.l (1. 

To cut the KeaiiileHx ii^aixt. fold the /i/iiiu/ on 
the bias. Set each i)iece of the machine to the 
iiieas\ire taken. Pla<-e the liack on fold of goods 
as in Fig. .">. IMace side-form so it touches Ivick at 
arms-eye and waist with curve slightly lapping on 
back: also lapskii-1. .Next place under-arm form 
to touch side-form at arnis-eyr and waist, 'i'licii 
the front to touch under-arm foi-m at arms-eye. 
and to A//^ '>//f ///c// at waist, as at B. Now trace 
ai-ound the (uit^ide. as the machine is placed. 




a 



liAiaHMAxs Ai)\Ay( t:i> hims <t\ duess ( nr/ya 




Use the square and take off 2 inches in front, 
from point A to L, and shape with curve of scjuare 
from point of bust, to L at waist line. Now meas- 
ure from A down <S inclies bek)w waist line, and 
slant to point L. Round oft' the skirt as indicated 
with curve of square. Take up A inch dart in 
front, and i in(>h dart at arms-eye in front and 
l)ack. Always make the skirt at least H- inches 
below waist line at point B. Then if too lon^cut 
a few slashes at the hip, until it will fit without 
wrinkles. Alirai/s fit the lining Jirst in this basque. 
If the outside is a plaid, be sure that the ijlaids 
match in front. 

In cutting striped goods, make a seam down 
the ])ack and run the stripes to form a {)oint a lit- 
tle below waist line. This gives a long eft'ect to 
the waist. 

THE DOUBLE SIDE-FORM. 

This style is only used in cutting for large 
forms, 26 inch waist and upwards. The object is 
to give a slender appearance to the form in the 
back, and in cutting princess or polonaise, to en- 
able one to throw the drapery or ])leats farther 
l)ack. 

Set the ba(-k, the side-form, and under-arm 
form to tlie measures taken. "'■Place the back and 
side-form together on a piece of paper, as per dot- 
ted line, figure 6, and trace around the outside. 
Now trace the under-arm form, then take oft' | of 
an inch at side seam, and add the same to the 
back. Shape line A with the side-form, and line 
L with tlie uiKler-arm form. 




Divide the space at 
arms-eye into three 
equal parts. Make 
the back at waist line 
1 inch wi de, and T) 
inches below waist 
m a k e the skirt 2 
i n c h es wide, and 
draw line B. Now 
divide what is left of 
bick, into two equal 
pirt^. Use the curve 
of the square from 
40 t:) shape the curve 
of buck B. B. to waist 
line, and draw line 1 
from w\aist line down 
staight with the back 
se:im for skirt of first 
Kill? form. Sliap;' curve 1, Y. from the word give, 
found on s(|uar(\ Draw line 2 of the sec-ond side 
form straight with line ], l^elow waist. Shape 
the skirt of first side-foi-m 1. K. with side-form of 
system the same as 2, A. 

Now use tracing wheel, trace the back to B, B, 
on the lining, then move over, and trace first side 
form 1, 1. Tlien move again and trace second side 
form 2, 2. 

Be sure to mark wjiist lines [n-operly in cicli 
piece. 

* 'I'hose usiiif; tlie No. i, must cut a palterii ot tin- 
bark and Hide-form, and place as indicated by the dot 
ted lines. llse the curve of the side-form of Si/xtciH. 
from the point marked Round Shoulders, to shape the 
curve of back B. B. and to shape the curve i, Y, use the 
side-form from the lotvest tjfisll below the cross on edge 
of system. Shape curve A. with side-seam of side-form 
and cui'\e L witli side-seam of the under arm form. 

FRENCH BACK. 



SKK l''I<J (. 




'I'his style of gar- 
ment is often used 
for small forms, and 
also in cutting coats. 

To cut the French 
Back place the l)ack 
and side-form to- 
gether as per dotted 
lines a n d t r a c e 
around them. Now 
trace u n d e r-a r m 
form and draw waist 
line. 

Take off from the 
side-form at waist li 
inches and 1 incli at 



HAIGHMAN'S AIHAXCED HIXTS O.V IHiKSS crTTINd 



aniis-eye ; and add the same to tlie \mder-ann 
form. * Use the curve of the square from (hish 
])eh)\v 3(1, to shape line L to waist line; and nse 
tlie curve of the side-form from the waist line up 
to sliape line R. 

Measure the space of hip of skirts from \j to 
K, and a(hl ^ of sp:ice to either side of tlie skirt of 
hack, as at F and K ; also ;^ at skirt of under-arm 
form as at 1. 

* Those using the No. i. can shape h'lie L with the 
curve of side-form, from the lowest dash down, and tlie 
line R of underarm form with side-seam curve of the side 



SKLVAOK. 



form. 



YOKES. 




To cut a yoke, set all the p:irtsof the machine 
to the exact measures. Then place back on fold 
of Koods as in Fis;. 8, place side-form next to it. 
and trace around both. The front is cut asjndi- 
cated with no seam lietweeu the under-arm form 
and front. Cut as much below the arms-eye as 
you wish, usnaly H inches. 

BLOUSE WAIST. 

sKK Ki(;i;Kr.s S and 9. 
A Blome irc//s'/ can be cut in the same man- 
ner, as a yoke, except you cut straight down as at 
line K of back, and cut both front and back six 
inidies lon.arer than the underarm lentrth. 

BELL S/'JRT. 

SI, I lie, I Kl I (I. 

To cut the Bell Skirt roYverWy you should have 
doul>le width Koods. Fold goods as seen in Fig. 
10. Draw line K L 2i inches below selvage, and 
the length of half the size of your waist measure, 
plus ;5 inches for darts. Thus if your waist meas- 
ure is 2'J inches, the line K L should l)e 11 inches, 
plus 3 inches for darts, equals 14 indies in this 
draft. Round off from top of selvage to point K. 

Take up .} inch dart on fold in front ; then 
measure back 4 inches and take up U inch dart. 
Then half way between this dart and point L, 
take up U inches. The dotted line K indicates 
the hij) measure, taken 5 inches below tlie waist 
line. After drafting the skirt, test this measure 
with the tape, and if not wide enough add to the 
14 inches at line K L. and take up mon- in darts. 




SF.I,V.\OK. 

Measure down on fold of goods, the length 
of your skirl in fi'oni from line K L I0 A. (say 40 
inches.) Then measure back IS inciies to point 
B, and from top of first dart down towards point 
B, 4()i inches. Then liack is inches and from lop 
of second (lai1. down toward point ('.41 inches. 
Then is inches to point)), and from top of sel- 
vage at point L. draw toward point I), 41. t inches. 

This will make the skirt '^ yards wide and is 
suffic-ieut for walking length. For a reoejition 
(foirn the full width of goods may be added. The 
length of train is usually from S to 1") inches 
longer than the front and sides. 

The skirt is not lined, hut fastened to a 
foundation skirt by the darts and belt. Cut the 
lining as per unlettered dotted lines. Also cut 
the goods in like manner and sew together, if 
goods is not wide enough for lengths of skirt. If 
this is not desired, gore the skirt as per dotted 
lines A. B. C and D. 

FRENCH SKIRT. 

s I !■: I !( ; r i< v. i i . 

SKIA A(iK. 




SKI,\ \(;k 



s 



ii.ir(uiM.t\'s mvAM i:i> hints oa iwi:ss ( i iriMi. 



Cut the French, Skirt same as the Bell, (Fig. 10, 
page 7) from selvage down, as per line K N ; then 
add a fnll width in center of back, as from K to 
L. This width over to the line C I, is put into 
pleats, and thrown under the skirt at waist, and 
It't fall natural to bottom of skirt. 

If goods is too narrow for this style it is better 
to cut the lining as in Fig. K), and arrange the 
(forxln in s)nre>< as lines A R C, <fec. 

PLAIN GORED SKIRT. 



SHOULDER CAPE. 
WITH PLEATS IN FRONT AND BACK. 

sir. KICUKK A 13. 

To cut this cape, measure as for Fig. i;5. The 
space K L, (9inches); is the measure over tiie arm, 
the same as A B, Fig. 18. The space from L to H, 
is the goods thrown into pleats in \\\e hack; and 




In cutting this conimoii skirt refer to 
diagram 1-', A and B. also to //isfniction 
Book iiage •_';-( for sizes and directions. 

SHOULDER CAPE. 
To cut thisrv/y/^. take all measures as for an 
ordinary dress, then set the front and back to the 
measures taken. Place liack on fold of goods as 
in Fig. i:>. Draw waist line K across the goods 
straight with selvage. Now measure out from 
arms-eye of back as from A to B. the size of your 
measure over the arni from arms-eye of front 
to arms-eye back (See Fifime 2 jiractice ine;is\ire in 
instinctiiin book), and draw line A F. Place the 
front with waist of tystem, at under-arm seam, on 
waist line K, and arms-eye to touch the end of 
line A B. Trace around outside. Now cut from 
B up to L. an<l down to end of line A, a little on 
the inside of arms-?ye of back to give a narrow ef- 
fect to the ))ack. ("ut shouldei- seams as indicated. 





from K to I. is the pleats in \\w front. The space 
varies with the nuiiil)erof pleats desired, usually 
from (') to ii ill. 

Should you desii'e a vont with the "Angel" 
sleeve, cut the sleeve as indicated by theletters R, 
1. K, F. L, H and N. The arms-eye K, F.L, can be 
any height desired, and fulled into the sleeve of 
coat or wrap; while the space L H and K 1, are 
put into pleats, and hang loose. 

FRENCH SLEEVES 

SKI'-. KICURK I 4, I'ACK (i. 

To ctit the French Sleeve, add to the phiin 
upper 8 inches, as from A to B, then make line P 
B the same length as P A. Now shape the top E, 
with the curve of the square, and make any 
height desired. Always tioice the height you wish 
the sleeve. ■■'■ Noir turn the fti/xtetn over ; place it 
with edge touching edge" of draft from elbow at 
P to wrist ; and trace under jxirt of a j)l(iin coat 
deeve. This will leave you the lines J, P, B, for 
the seam from elbow to shoulders, and no seam 
from elbow to wrist. 

'Vo cut the under part small and to hide this 
seam, take off from the under part 2 inches, as 
from J to I, and add the same to the upper part, 
as from B to K. Makefile line P K 7} inch longer 
than the line P I. 

To cut theLeg O'Muttoii, with no seam in the 
back, shape as piM- dotted line F L 'O M. witli 
curve of scpiare. 

"Thos'i usinj; the .V,;. /, can cut tlie.se sleeves, by first 
drafliiif;" the upper part on tlie lining, then cut th ; /><!///•/■// 
i>l tlie iniiier part of a plain ctial sleeiu- : ami place pattern to 
touch at elliow and wrist. 'I'race arounci uniler part from 
wrist to I I and P. and cut as per directions above. t't-c 
side form rurvi' to slia|)(' iiiijli toji sleeves. 



BAUGHMAys Ain ANVEIt HINTS O.V 1 Hi ESS (riTI.M;. 



u 




over with elbow ami top touching at draft, as at 
H L), ami mark around it for sleeve No. i : also 
mark elbow at 1^. 

To cut sleeve No. 2. hold your tinker on 
pattern at eliiow, and move wrist to touch dralt 
at 1! ami .\ : then mai k elbow at I an<l trace 
around to ,\. 



MATCHING PLAIDS 



S V. V. M ( . 1 i; I 



I'). 



JERSY SLEEVES. 

SEK FIGL'RK 1 5. 

To cut Jersi/ Sleeves No. 1 trace 
around sleeve system as per line A, H. 
D ; then turn si/stem over and let it 
touch draft at elbow B, and upper end 
at D ; then trace under part of the 
plain coat sleeve from elb^w t > wrist, 
as A, B, ('. 

To cut sleeve No. 2, trace upper 
part as before, also the under part from 
I) to L ateUiow, and line L. B, throuKh 
slot of sleeve ; then hold your finder 
on system at elbow and move wrist of 
system to touch wrist of draft at A. 
and trace line B I throuprh the sh)t ; 
then from I to A, for under part of 
plain (-oat sleeve. To cut aBell Sleeve 
join ends as per line O. 



To match i)laids nicely has caused 
dress-makers much trouble; yet it is easy 
if care is taken to place system with 
waist line on a stripe, and the centre seam 
from fleck to centre of back, on the stripe: 
now count the number of stt-ipes irom waiM 
of l)ack at K to arms-eye of l)ack at L. both uji- 
ward, and to the right ; then place \W waist line 
of Hide-form curve J to the same position of tlie 




{■■■■■■mi 





Those using the Xo. i. can cut this sleeve b\- first 
drafting the upper on the lining, then cut a paper pat 
tern of tlie under part of a //,//>/ ,i>i}l ih-i-n-. an<l tiiin it 



plaiff i\^ A'of the h(i-k\ coiiiit to the riKlit and uii- 
ward, the same number of stripes as in the liack 
from K to L and place upper end of side-form, to 
the xiinie position of the phiid as point A of the 
Back. ■' (See Fig. Ui. ) 

I'lace the front as iiilicat.'d. with ui)per part 
of the bust straight with si ripe. Notice the posi- 
tion of the under-arm seam of the front, and in 
cutting the under-arm I'onii. place this seam in 
like position. (See Fig. Iti. » 

i\oti<'e : In placing the back on the goods as 
indicated it gives a taperiim e.^ect\a\\w form from 
the centre of back down ; likewise with the front 
from front of l)ust down to waist line'. This can 
also )>e done in cutting striped goods. 

Those using the .\,>. i will use pattern cut to the 
traced linos to place on goods as ai)o\e. or turn the seam 
of lining umier to traced line. 



in 



HAl (HUMAN'S ADVAM t:i) tliyrs O.V DliKSS ( ITTJNG. 



THE DRAPED PRINCESS. 




SKK IIGURK I/. 

Tliis iy cut by 
placing the iin- 
fler-ariii form so 
that it ^'ivt's ;i 
two iiK^h dart at 
waipt of liont, 
and so that the 
waist line of the 
under-anii form 
is from U to 2'> 
inch es below 
tlie waist line of 
front at H. de- 
iJendiiiK upon 
the amount of 
fullness wanted 
in the drapery 
over the hip be- 
low |)oint H. 

To bring the 
form up when 
thus cut it also 
takes up the 
fullness which 
naturally falls 
ill front of a princess or polonaise. 

MEDICI COLLAR. 

THE SQUARE MEDIC COLLAR 

si !■ |.|<;inr I. 

First draw a rectangle 
four inches high and the 
length of half the size of 
your neck measure, six 
ini-hes for a tw^elve inch 
neck. etc. as in Fig. I, a. 
H, c, I). Now add out 
and mark a point one 
iiicli from I), tlien draw 
the line a k from ]•_> to 
1;") inches long, depend, 
ing n|ion the length of 
the collar desired. Draw 
line (■ K with curve of 
the s(juarrt. Then shape 
l)a(k of collar likewise 
with the curve of the 
sciuare and the collar is 
fiinished. 

To obtain the cvw/ collar e.ffect. measure in 
from A to x 'ii inches, cut a v and rcniml off as 
indicated in Fiy. 1. 




THE ROUND MEDICI COLLAR. 

SKK KIcrKK II. 

Draw- a rectangle as before, and the line a 
M same as a k in No. 1. Then use the curve of 
the square to round off the lines h m and n m. 
Shape ba(^k of collar. 

The line l.k m n is another style of the 
round Medici collar and is obtained same as the 
one just described, except it is four inches high 
from line k to m n as per dotted line. Then hol- 
low in as per line k to m. 

THE STANDING COLLAR. 

This is cut as per directions on the collar 
guage, and the (corner is added if desired, with 
edge of collar gouged. 

Those using the No. 1, will use the dart rule 
to draft the rectamjU, and shape the collars with 
the ciDve fif the Hide-form, in cutting the Medici 
Cdliir. 

HOW TO BASTE. 

This is something tiiat every person should 
t'loroughly understand before taking up the art 
of di'essmaking. 

Nkvkk attempt to stit«Oi a garment before it 
is properly basted. 

Nkvkk attempt to baste the separate pieces of 
the garment together, without having first \)yo\)- 
erly tax'ked the lining on to the goods. 

Never take the goods up from the table while 
basting the lining onto the goods. 

In tacking the lining on to the goods, always 
hold the Iront of the lining full to the goods, from 
the waist line, up about two inches. Hold the 
lining full at front shoulder seam. Slightly full 
the under-arm form and side-form at waist line, 
also the (-enter back. 

In basting the various piec-es of the garment 
together, always have the w^aist lines marked 
where the seams should meet, and before basting 
pin these parts together at waist line first, then 
■stick pins about '2i to 8 inches apart on each traecd 
line, so that the pin will come through <tli'i traced 
line on opposite side. 

In basting the curve of the back, hold the 
side-form to you. This will necessitate basting 
one from top down, and the other from waist up. 



IiA( (iHMAys AIHiSVKI* HISTS OA ItHESS ('( TTJNfi 



II 



111 l)astiii^ the shoulder seam, stretrli the 
front to the back; or if this cannot be done, full 
the back to the front. Always start at the neck, 
and if you cannot make the seams exact, let the 
diU'ereiHe be at tlie arms-eye, and trim off. 

In IxistiiiK the darts, baste from the top down. 
Nkver mark a waist line for the darts, unless you 
measure down on either side and mark both sides 
exact. This is very essential in the French Dart. 

To fasten xtai/'i in the dress so as to avoid 
wrinkles at H-aixt. first bend the stay outward at 
waist, then fasten the ends to the goods. Now 
press the center down to the goods and fasten it. 
This naturally stretches the goods and avoids the 



wrinkles so often caused by the stays. 

In basting a Seamless Waist, Jit the lining Jirst 
and then put the lining on to the goods/?///. 

To give a dksiraiu.k kfkkct tlie goods should 
always be cut folded on the bias, the same as the 
lining. This gives the e.ifeet of length to the waist. 
Plaid goods are the most desirable for this kind 
of a basque. If solid goods is used, the basque 
should ))e trimmed with gimp or narrow lace to 
give this effect. 

As a OKNERAL RULE and especially for silks 
and velvets, cut the linings A inch longer than 
the measure, and full the half inch to outside. 



OK^s F]R A I. 1 ) I H FX Tl OInTS. 



1. Each cut in this book is represented by 
figures 1, 2, 8, etc. 

'2. Never read the directions without fre- 
qw^ntlii referring to the cut mention+'d. 

■'>. Everii letter used separatelij. as A and B, 
etc. in these instruction, can be found on the cut 
referred to in the directions, and are there to help 
yoii locate that particular point or seam. 

4. Never read over a letter without seeing 
where it is found on the cut, and what it means. 

T). Remember tlie Ad.iustable Tailor System 
is set to actual measure, and is always the shape of 
a perfect fitting pattern for the form whose meas- 
ure is taken. Remember that with it and the as- 



sistance of the square and (-ollar-guage, you art- 
able to cut any style of a ladies' dress, from the 
collar to the skirt, and do it easier than with any 
other system ever invented. 

To those using the Improved No. 1 Gtlove- 
Pitting Garment Cutter, we wish to say, that 
you will find nothing that is its equal for the price. 
The square and collar-gua^e are combined in the 
dart rule. The extended curvature is found in the 
side-form, so that you are enabled to cut any style 
of dress fashion may dictate. 

Nearly everything in this book may be cut 
from the System direct, after you learn to use the 
cut pattern first. 



12 



BAUGHMAN'S ADVANCMO HINTS ON DRESS CUTTING. 



TnOUR Improved System we do away with subtracting the waist size 
JL from the bust, thus giving each form a model dart; we also separate 
the under-arm form from the front, and the side-form from the back. 
This enables us to cut the French Bias and Worth Darts easily, and 
makes the System more complete for rapid work. 

For those desiring our old System we still keep a supply on hand. 



F^F^IGH] LIST 



-ov — 



BAUGHMAN'S 

GLOVE-FITTING GARMENT CUTTER, 



HkdPK-OVED ISTo. 1 



1(5.00 



One Cutter with Instruction Book and 
oral lesson,^ 

One book of Advanced Hints on Dress 

Cuttinff 50 

Ora/ lessons on all French styles 2.50 



-OK- 



BAUGHMAN'S 

ADJUSTABLE TAILOR SYSTEM. 



One Adjustable Tailor System with In- 
struction Book and oral lessons 

One book of Advanced Hints on Dress 
Cuttinff 

Oral lessons on all French styles 



* 10.00 

50 
2.50 



M I S( \KIA .ATST KOT ^K .\ RTJC'I.KS. 



( )ne Tracing Wheel, post-paid ..'{5 

One I'ape Line ] <fe . 25 

One Pinking Iron .85 



Agents wanted. ^: ^'\' "^^ '"°^* ''"r" *'7'n° °"<: 

J. V— ^— ' agents; also give reduced rates to DRESS 

MAKERS buying in large quantities to furnish apprentice girls. Our 
Systems are new, yet the territory is being rapidly taken. Prompt at- 
tention given to all orders. 

Write for terms, enclosing a two cent stamp, to 



138 S. Sixth Street. 



Burlington, Iowa. 



1 



•^ 






J 



•^ 



BAUGHMAN'S 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 



011 020 379 2 




Glove-Fitting Garment Cutter, ImproYed No. 1 



BAUGHMAN'S 




Adjustable Tailor System. 



AGKNTS \VANTK1>. — KNCLOSE A TWO (;KNT SITAMP AND 
ADDRKSS AM. ORDKRf* TO 

J. s. B-A.xjGHi:M:^3sr, 

No. 138 S. Sixth Street, Burlington, Iowa. 



^ 




Hollinger Corp. 
pH8.5 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 




Hollinger Corp. 
pH 8.5 



